Belgium’s Rising Wine Industry: Europe’s Hidden Gem?

Belgium, a country long synonymous with beer, has quietly become home to a growing and increasingly respected wine industry.

This transformation is remarkable, given the nation’s reputation for beer consumption and its challenging climate, marked by about 200 rainy days each year. Yet, amidst these unassuming conditions, Belgian vineyards are flourishing, driven by passionate vintners and a climate that, while volatile, is increasingly conducive to wine production.

The story of Belgian wine’s resurgence begins in the verdant region of Haspengouw, in the eastern part of the country, known more for its apple and pear orchards than vineyards. It was here, 30 years ago, that brothers Wilfried and Robrecht Schorpion embarked on an unlikely venture: growing grapevines.

Their initial motivation was financial necessity—they couldn’t afford to buy wine, so they decided to make it themselves. Starting as hobbyists, the Schorpion brothers gradually expanded their operations, eventually turning their pastime into a full-time pursuit. By 2003, they were selling their wine, and just four years later, they had left their day jobs to focus entirely on viticulture.

Today, the Schorpions are among Belgium’s most celebrated winemakers, particularly known for their sparkling wines, which closely follow the traditional methods of the Champagne region, located just 120 miles to the south. The brothers have found success by adhering to the rigorous standards of Champagne production, a testament to their commitment to quality.

Belgium’s winemaking industry has experienced a dramatic transformation over the past few decades. At the turn of the millennium, professional winemaking in the country was still a marginal activity. However, between 2006 and 2023, Belgium’s wine output surged by nearly 1,500 per cent, according to government data. Last year alone, the country’s 290 winegrowers produced a record-breaking 3.4 million litres of wine, equivalent to 2.6 million bottles. This burgeoning industry has not gone unnoticed, with Belgian wines now being served in top restaurants and even stocked in major supermarkets.

Despite this impressive growth, Belgium’s wine production remains relatively small on the global stage. France, for instance, produced enough wine in 2019 to fill over five billion bottles, while the UK, another emerging player in cool-climate viticulture, produced 20 million bottles in a record year. Yet, the quality of Belgian wines, particularly its sparkling varieties, is gaining recognition.

The rise of Belgian wine has been supported by changing climate conditions, which, while erratic, have generally favoured the production of sparkling wines. These wines, which require grapes with higher acidity and lower sugar content, are well-suited to Belgium’s cooler climate.

However, the country’s winemakers face challenges as well. The weather can be unpredictable, with excessive rain and frost sometimes devastating harvests. This year, for example, has been particularly difficult.

Nevertheless, the diversity of Belgian wine is expanding. Non-sparkling wines, such as the acclaimed chardonnay from Clos d’Opleeuw in Haspengouw, are also making their mark. This small, one-hectare vineyard has received praise from renowned chefs like Heston Blumenthal and has been favourably compared to the prestigious Burgundian Puligny-Montrachet.

Wine tourism is also on the rise in Belgium, bolstered by the growing number of vineyards and the unique experiences they offer. Joppe Theunis, founder of Terroir Wine Safari, has capitalised on this trend, offering tours that transport visitors between vineyards in Flanders via golf carts. The popularity of these tours is evident, with Theunis’s business attracting 6,000 visitors annually and planning expansion into the Meuse Valley, another significant wine region in French-speaking Belgium.

Despite its relative obscurity, Belgian wine is gradually earning a place at the table. The industry’s growth has been driven by the dedication of its producers and a climate that, while challenging, offers the potential for creating high-quality wines. As Theunis suggests, Belgian wine could soon become a classic choice for wine lovers. This burgeoning industry, supported by a nation with a deep-rooted appreciation for fine beverages, might just be Europe’s best-kept secret.

As Belgium continues to build on its winemaking traditions, it is clear that the country’s potential is far from fully realised. In a world increasingly interested in local and sustainable produce, Belgian wine is poised to take its place among Europe’s respected wine regions.