Gianfranco Funari

The Monumental Cemetery of Milan, more than just a burial ground, is an extraordinary outdoor museum. It stands as a space where some of the greatest sculptors of the 1900s have come together to reflect on and elaborate on the profound theme of death.

Even from the outside, the cemetery impresses with its vast dimensions, spanning 250,000 square metres, creating a grand oasis of peace, silence, and tranquillity. Contrary to what one might expect, the cemetery is not a somber place. Instead, it is a pleasant site to visit, filled with inscriptions that invite visitors to remember those who have passed, rich in historical information, and adorned with fascinating artistic details.

The Cimitero Monumentale di Milano was designed by Carlo Maciachini (1818–1899) and officially opened in 1866. It was conceived to consolidate several small, scattered cemeteries into one grand location, accommodating the growing needs of Milan’s expanding population during a time of significant urban and industrial transformation. Maciachini’s vision successfully merged practicality with artistic grandeur, making the cemetery a landmark in its own right.

The cemetery soon became a repository for a wide range of contemporary and classical Italian sculptures, Greek temples, elaborate obelisks, and other unique works, including a scaled-down version of Trajan’s Column. The cemetery’s establishment marked a pivotal moment in Milan’s history, providing a centralised, dignified resting place that reflected the city’s cultural and historical values.

The cemetery is divided into three distinct zones. The central zone hosts the tombs of Catholic families and individuals. To the right, facing the façade, is the section reserved for Jewish burials, while the left side is dedicated to non-Catholic graves. This thoughtful arrangement ensures that the cemetery respects the diverse religious and cultural backgrounds of Milan’s residents.

Architectural and Artistic Highlights

Architecturally, the cemetery features elements of both Romanesque and Gothic styles. Along the main paths, maps guide visitors to the most significant monuments, including the Famedio (Memorial Chapel).

Campari family’s bronze sculpture of the Last Supper, created by Giannino Castiglioni in 1935

This voluminous structure, constructed from brick and marble in a Neo-Medieval style, houses the tombs of several prominent figures, most notably Alessandro Manzoni, the revered poet and novelist.

One of the cemetery’s many surprises is found along a secondary path to the left, where the tomb of the celebrated Campari family resides.

Known for their famous aperitif brand, this striking piece exemplifies the integration of art and memorial within the cemetery.

Filippi’s grave at the Monumental Cemetery of Milan, Italy

For those interested in the works of the great sculptor Medardo Rosso, a visit to monument number 325 is a must.

Here, visitors can find the figure of Filippo Filippi, a musical critic and composer closely connected with the Milanese Scapigliatura movement.

Rosso’s work on this monument captures the essence of Filippi’s contributions to the cultural fabric of Milan.

Notable Monuments

Another unmissable monument is the tomb of Arturo Toscanini, crafted by sculptor Leonardo Bistolfi. This delicate and dramatic piece alludes to the premature death of Toscanini’s son, Giorgio, and portrays the parents’ desperate embrace.

The front of the monument features a boat, symbolising the voyage of the young boy’s remains returning from New York, a poignant metaphor for the passage from life to death.

In essence, the Monumental Cemetery of Milan is much more than a mere resting place for the departed.

It is a living museum that offers visitors a unique opportunity to reflect on history, art, and the lives of those who have shaped Milan into the vibrant city it is today.

Whether you are drawn by its artistic allure or its historical significance, a visit to this remarkable cemetery promises a profound and enriching experience.