High above the island’s more commercial quarters, the town of Anacapri offers a quieter, more reflective experience of Capri. Here, winding lanes, whitewashed homes, and fragrant gardens open onto sweeping views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. It is also home to one of Capri’s most evocative landmarks: Villa San Michele, a residence built by Swedish physician and author Axel Munthe, whose bestselling memoir brought this mountaintop villa to global attention.
Discovering Anacapri: Capri’s Tranquil Counterpart
Unlike the bustling Piazzetta of Capri town, Anacapri retains a sense of calm. Its name literally means “above Capri”, and the town sits on a plateau with steep cliffs falling to the sea below. Access is either by road or via the ancient Phoenician Steps, a stone stairway once used by the island’s earliest settlers.
The heart of Anacapri is Piazza Vittoria, where visitors can catch the chairlift to Monte Solaro, the island’s highest point. The view from the summit includes the Faraglioni rocks, the Bay of Naples, and, in clear conditions, the Apennine mountains. Close by, the Church of San Michele contains a rare 18th-century majolica floor, depicting the expulsion of Adam and Eve in intricate detail.
Villa San Michele: A Doctor’s Dream in Stone
Tucked into the cliffs just above the town, Villa San Michele was the life’s work of Axel Munthe. He first came to Capri in his twenties, and in 1895 acquired the ruined remains of a Roman villa and a small medieval chapel. Over the next two decades, he transformed the site into a residence that blended ancient materials with his own austere yet elegant design.
Munthe was not an architect, but he had a clear vision. The villa incorporates marble fragments, classical columns, and sculptures recovered from sites across Italy. Arched windows frame panoramic sea views, and gardens planted with Mediterranean and exotic species create a sense of harmony between architecture and nature.
At the edge of the terrace sits the villa’s most famous artefact: a granite sphinx, believed to date to the time of Ramesses II. Its silhouette has become an unofficial symbol of Anacapri, eternally facing the sea.
A Global Bestseller: The Story of San Michele
In 1929, Munthe published The Story of San Michele, a memoir that recounts episodes from his life, medical career, and the villa’s construction. Written in English, the book became an instant bestseller. Its poetic style, philosophical tone, and vivid description of both human suffering and natural beauty struck a chord with readers across Europe and North America.
The book was translated into over 40 languages and has sold millions of copies. It remained on bestseller lists well into the mid-20th century and is still in print today. For many, it was their first introduction to the island of Capri, and it remains a literary classic.
Cultural Heritage and Environmental Vision
Villa San Michele was more than a private residence. In the early 20th century, it served as a gathering place for writers and artists, including Oscar Wilde and Rainer Maria Rilke. Munthe, though not wealthy, used the income from his writing to support humanitarian and environmental causes.
One of his lasting contributions was the creation of a bird sanctuary on nearby Mount Barbarossa, which he purchased to protect migratory species from local hunting. The site remains a conservation area today, managed by the Swedish Institute in Capri.
Visiting Villa San Michele Today
The villa is open to the public and remains much as Munthe left it. Visitors can explore its rooms, gardens, and terraces, and enjoy views that stretch from Ischia to the mainland. The grounds are part of the Grandi Giardini Italiani, a network of Italy’s most significant gardens.
Concerts, lectures, and exhibitions are held regularly on-site, keeping alive Munthe’s vision of the villa as a cultural and contemplative retreat.
A Different Side of Capri
For travellers seeking more than beaches and boutiques, Anacapri offers an alternative experience. It is a place of history, literature, and enduring calm. And at its heart, Villa San Michele continues to tell the story of one man’s attempt to build not just a home, but a sanctuary—for himself, for others, and for the natural world.
Plan Your Visit
📍 Location: Viale Axel Munthe, 34, Anacapri
⏰ Opening hours: Daily, seasonal variation (check website)
🎟️ Entry: Standard admission fees apply; guided tours available
